Use stain and other wood finishes to protect wood from the elements while leaving it's natural beauty exposed.

Be sure to select the correct finish for your application.

Wood Sealer (this could be a Sanding sealer or wood conditioner)

Wood sealer is used on soft woods to help tame wild grain patterns and even-out stain absorbency. The sealer penetrates the wood, slowing stain absorbency for a more even colour appearance and grain pattern.

Wood Stains

Stains accent grain without hiding it and protect the wood surface. There are two types of stain: semitransparent and semisolid. Semitransparent stains can be applied over bare wood or previously semitransparent stained (but not sealed) wood. Solid colour stains can be applied over bare wood, previously stained and even painted surfaces in sound condition.

Exterior stains are used primarily on wood siding and shingles, decks, outdoor structures and furniture. They are available in latex and oil-based formulas. Latex stains do not typically fade as rapidly as oil stains. Latex stains are often recommended for redo over previously oil-based stained or painted surfaces due to their excellent adhesion properties.

Latex is recommended for woods such as cedar, redwood and cypress that have natural resistance to rotting. However, putting a light-coloored stain on these woods can result in brown discoloration of the stain. Oil-based stains also take more abuse than latex types.

When staining exterior wood decks, only semitransparent oil-based stains should be used. If the deck is made of pressure-treated wood, it should be stained two to five months after installation.

Water-repellent preservative stains contain a fungicide and a water repellent, protecting against decay, mildew, warping, splitting and cracking, as well as wood deterioration. They can be oil- or latex-based stains in semitransparent and transparent finishes.

Interior stains, used for furniture and woodwork, come in either pigmented or dye categories. Both can have oil or synthetic bases.

Pigmented stains color the wood with the same type of pigments used in paint. They range in colour from almost clear to semitransparent. They are easy to apply, usually brushed on or wiped on with a rag, and then wiped off to control the depth of the stain. They leave no brush or lap marks if applied properly.

Stains are generally used to enhance the grain of the wood and emphasize grain contrasts. They may or may not protect the wood; check manufacturers' labels. An oil or polyurethane finish is generally mixed with the stain, so the do-it-yourselfer can complete the staining and finishing job in one step.

Dye stains are more difficult to use and are more frequently used by professionals. Most come in powders, to be mixed in a solvent. Most are highly flammable. Premixed dyes are most often used by the d-i-y-er.

Dye stains offer deeper penetration of wood surfaces and less grain hiding. However, they also fade more quickly than pigmented stains and require more effort to prepare the wood.

Water-based dyes tend to raise the grain on many woods because the water penetrates the wood and raises the tiny fibers. Wood should be wetted first, then sanded down, before applying water-based dyes.

Nongrain-raising (NGR) dyes are dissolved in a NGR solvent. They dry faster than water-based counterparts, so application must be faster to avoid lap marks.

Coloured oil finishes, such as Danish oil, tung oil or Teak  oil, provide coloring and protection in one step. However, oil finishes do not stand up to alcohol or water the way polyurethanes do, so they are not recommended for high-traffic, abuse-prone applications.

But oils make nice, low-luster finishes for furniture and other fine pieces. Waxing can provide water resistance with these finishes.

Varnishes Or Polyurathane Finishes

Varnish is a blend of oils and resins that coats the surface of wood and gives a transparent, protective coating, allowing the beauty of the wood to show through. Depending on its formulation, it can leave a gloss, semigloss or satin finish.

All varnishes must be applied to a clean, dust-free surface in a dirt-free area with a clean brush. Dust can damage the wet surface.  By using a Tack cloth in between coats can reduce the dust problem.

Varnishes fall into four groups, divided by their base: alkyd, polyurethane, latex, or phenolic. Varnishes are typically mixed with a tung oil or linseed oil.

Phenolic varnishes of modified phenolic oils are the most expensive of the varnishes but deliver the best performance in terms of durability, especially in exterior uses. They absorb ultraviolet light and neutralize oxidation. The downside of phenoics is that they tend to yellow faster than other varnishes.

Alkyd varnishes offer flexibility and hardness in both interior and exterior uses, but they oxidise more quickly in exterior use. However, they do not yellow as much as phenolics.

Polyurethanes are not generally recommended for outdoor use. They yellow and crack when exposed to ultraviolet light unless ultraviolet light absorbers are added to make the polyurethanes more durable for outdoor use. Check manufacturer specifications.

Polyurethanes are highly recommended for interior use because of their superior protection. For interior use, phenolic or polyurethane stains are better for water resistance and hard use, but customers may object to the plastic appearance they produce. Alkyds offer a natural-looking gloss for furniture and indoor architectural trim and doors.

There are varnishes that offer the cleanup convenience of water-based latex coatings. These varnishes combine polymers with urethane or acrylic polymers. These water-based products offer the advantages of oil-based coatings and the cleanup convenience of water. The acrylic coatings take from one-half hour to 1 1/2 hours to dry and do not yellow the wood. Some acrylic-based varnishes are durable enough for use on floors.

Except for two-package or moisture-cured urethanes, exterior clear finishes do not last as long as pigmented stains or paints.

Shellac

Shellac provides a fast, hard-drying, durable finish for furniture, woodwork, hardwood floors and other wood-finishing applications. It also functions as a sealer and stain killer on drywall, cured plaster and new wood. Shellac is widely compatible with other coatings, and it can be applied over old shellac, varnish or lacquer finishes that are adhering well.

Most shellac is sold in a "3-lb. cut," the consistency recommended for most uses. The 3-lb. cut can be thinned to a 1-lb. cut for applications such as wood sealer before staining by thinning one quart of shellac with three pints of alcohol.

For applications where water spotting may be a problem, protect shellacked surfaces with paste wax or varnish.

Shellac may be applied with a brush, foam brush or from an aerosol can. When brushing, flow on the shellac from a full brush with minimum brushing, and do not re-brush areas, since shellac's alcohol-based solvent dries quickly. Shellac offers convenient cleanup in ammonia and warm water.

Wood Preservatives

All wood preservatives must contain an fungicide to classify as wood preservatives. Pressure-treated wood, with lifetime warranties, does not require a brush-on preservative coating. Brush-on preservatives are used for untreated wood and should be reapplied periodically.

They are generally classified as one of three types. A clear alkyd or oil-based type without fungicide is sometimes called log oil or log-cabin finish. The second type has the same base with fungicide additives of penta, cuprinol or a preservative. The third type consists of a non-paintable preservative containing wax or creosote oil, primarily for farm use.

Wood preservatives for the d-i-y-er generally should be paintable.

Wood preservatives by themselves provide no protection against moisture or water. Water repellency must be formulated into the product. The preservative chemical used varies according to need and type of exposure.

Waterborne, water-repellent preservatives for wood offer lower environmental hazards and convenient water cleanup. They provide an alternative to conventional solvent-based water-repellent preservatives while retaining effectiveness, rapid drying qualities and excellent paintability. 

Water Repellent

A water repellent helps minimize water damage on pressure-treated and untreated wood. Some water repellents also contain a mildewcide to help control mold and mildew growth. It's best to use a water repellent that is formulated for immediate application to pressure-treated wood to avoid premature cracking, splitting, splintering and warping. Periodic re-applications help prevent water damage as wood ages.

Wood-Toner Water Repellents

Wood toners are water repellents that add color to highlight wood grain. Although toners are not to be considered a stain, adding color to a water repellent gives wood the benefit of ultraviolet light protection. Most toners on the market are designed for use on pressure-treated wood. Not all repellents contain ingredients that cause water to bead.

We hope this information has been helpful to you in helping you choose the right product!